UProcess Color Academy Courses

Demi-permanent hair color is hair color that contains an alkaline agent other than ammonia (e.g.ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and, while always employed with a developer, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may be lower than used with a permanent hair color. Since the alkaline agents employed in demi-permanent colors are less effective in removing the natural pigment of hair than ammonia these products provide no lightening of hair's color during dyeing. As the result, they cannot color hair to a lighter shade than it was before dyeing and are less damaging to hair than their permanent counterpart.

Hydrogen Peroxide is often called a developer in the salon hair color market.

Professional Salon Hydrogen peroxide is different then the peroxide commonly used for medical purposes.

Hydrogen Peroxide is an acid and hair color is alkaline. Mixing Peroxide and hair color together creates an Oxidative reaction that opens the cuticle of the hair and bonds the color to the proteins found in the cortex of the hair.

Hydrogen peroxide is used in different strengths when mixing it with hair color or hair bleach. The higher the Volume density numbers the greater the energy to color and lighten the hair.

10 Volume or 3% is used for deposit only color processes

20 Volume or 6% is used to lighten one shade* and is best to use to color gray hair

30 Volume or 9% is used to lighten two shade levels*. Not recommended for coloring gray hair

40 Volume or 12% is used for lighten more than 2 levels*.

*Check your hair color manufactures levels of lift according to developer volume

Depending on the type of color and the purpose of the coloring different

Timings relate to different Volumes of Peroxide.

The energy (time) provided by the peroxide to develop the hair color in the hair is equal to the Volume of the peroxide.

10 Volume will activate hair color for 10 minutes. During this time the cuticle of the hair is being opened.After 10 minutes the color is depositing for 15 minutes in the cuticle or cortex depending on the size and strength of the cuticle.

20 Volume activates the hair color for 20 minutes and then the oxidative process gives way to the 15-minute color deposit process.

30 Volume activates hair color for 30 minutes. During this time the natural pigments in the cortex are lightened. Allow the color to develop for another 15 minutes for a full 45 minutes of development time.

40 Volume activates the hair color for 40 minutes. 40 Volume is the highest Volume that can be used safely on the scalp.Hair Color mixed with 40 Volume developers will remove natural pigments from the hair leaving the hair brassy. The color must remain on the hair 15 minutes longer in order to tone/color the hair. The total time for a color mixed with 40 Volume is 55 -60 minutes.

Clear Hydrogen Peroxide can loose it's effectiveness over time. The 20 Volume that the salon purchases in a gallon jug may be 15 Volume when the jug is half full.

15 Volume will not give you the gray coverage you desire and may not give the brightness of color or desired longevity.

Hydrogen peroxide buffered with small amounts of Salicylic or Phosphoric acid stay truer to volume throughout the life of the container. Often other oils or conditioners are added to give the buffered developer a creamy texture.

Modern hair color is chemically sophisticated; the color product is designed to work with the manufactures companion developer. For best results and for insurance purposes use the developer the color manufacture recommends.